Zolima’s Picks: Indie Bookshops on HK Island and in the NT

This article is part of our Zolima’s Picks series highlighting creative spaces and businesses across Hong Kong. We’ve independently selected each location to bring you our recommendations. Stay tuned for more of our bookstore roundups!

In 2018, we published an article exploring Hong Kong’s independent bookstore scene and what they strive to offer. Although the city’s reading culture has never been strong, we noticed a growing number of bookstores doing more than just selling books.

This trend gained momentum during the social unrest in 2019 and the Covid-19 pandemic, as people increasingly sought refuge in these quiet, intimate spaces. Spread across the city and even on remote islands, they became places where Hong Kongers could linger, discover new things, escape the pressures of urban life and reconnect with their communities.

The rise of indie bookshops has not only added a cultural vibrancy to the city but also supported the development of its literature. However, these businesses have faced significant challenges, with at least 40 shops closing since 2020 due to weak sales, economic uncertainty and the tightening political restrictions following the implementation of the National Security Law.

Still, many of these bookshops continue to lead the way in offering an alternative way of living in the city — and each has its own unique character. Most of the shops are located in Kowloon, but we’ll start by taking you to those on Hong Kong Island and in the New Territories, highlighting not only their book selections but also how they engage with their respective communities. Take the chance to explore these independent bookstores and their neighbourhoods! 

ACO Books

Wan Chai 

Housed on the top floor of the vertical art village in Wan Chai’s Foo Tak Building, ACO Books is a non-profit charitable art organisation led by artists, integrating a bookstore, publishing, curating and creative space. 

Its name is an abbreviation of Art and Culture Outreach, reflecting its mission to promote the development of arts and culture since its founding in 2003. With funding, ACO transformed the upper floor units of Foo Tak into art and cultural spaces available for lease to artists and cultural entities at affordable rates. 

In 2008, ACO launched its non-profit independent bookshop, specialising books in art and culture. Inside the spacious space, it offers an alternative selection of books in contemporary art, Chinese and Western literature, philosophy, culture, society and green living, which are often priced lower than retail. The bookstore also features local and international self-published works and small publications, supporting the creative industry.

More than just a shop, ACO serves as a hub for the art and culture community. It regularly hosts exhibitions, talks and events, providing a platform for collaboration, idea exchange and creative expression. Here, there’s no pressure to make a purchase. You can grab a book, settle in, and enjoy a peaceful read while connecting with like-minded individuals and soaking in the creative atmosphere.

If you’re visiting ACO, be sure to also explore the other creative spaces inside the building! From the 2nd to the 13th floor, you’ll find 19 stores offering diverse art and cultural experiences. Among them are the Xi Xi Space on the seventh floor, which recreates the home of the late writer and showcases her literary journey; 3678 Space on the eighth floor, dedicated to zines, exhibitions, and workshops; and the queer bookstore and community space, Onebookhalf, on the 12th floor. 

ACO Books is located at 14/F, Foo Tak Building, 365–367 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai. It opens from Tuesday to Sunday, 13:00 to 17:00.

Bei Bei Book House 

Kam Tin

Set in a quiet vegetable field in Kam Tin, Bei Bei Book House is a cosy retreat for nature and literature lovers, founded in 2016 by a retired couple. It’s more than just books; here, you can play with cats and goats, explore the farm, savour homegrown meals or join workshops such as baking, pottery and mindfulness — all about slow living. 

“We want people to unwind in nature. There’s no pressure to make a purchase or join any workshops, just come and take a rest. You can enjoy a chat, refreshment or a bit of reading. If you like, you’re welcome to bring something to share,” says Teresa Lee, the owner and former social worker.

Open only on Fridays and Saturdays, Bei Bei doesn’t set any limitations: people are free to walk around and sit comfortably wherever they like. There are branches and chairs scattered around the bookhouse, as well as communal tables and cozy corners where tea is served. The space offers a diverse selection of books, ranging from literature and health to philosophy, children’s books and gardening. It also features second-hand Chinese and English books donated by readers.

The owner also runs a farm next door, Woody Garden, and invites readers to trade a book for a homecooked meal or produce grown either on their farm or by local farmers in the area. In addition to books, the shop offers a variety of items, including stationery, cups, knick-knacks and local produce. 

As you journey to Yuen Long, the owner also recommends some spots to visit along the way. Upon exiting Kam Sheung Road MTR station, you can first stop by the Richfield, home to a variety of cafes and snack shops. Further along, you’ll find the Victorian-style Red Brick House Market, once a candle factory but now a vibrant handicraft market. Lastly, don’t miss the Kam Tin Mural Village, known for its eye-catching street art pieces.

Starting in April, Bei Bei will be taken over by Forest Bookhouse, but rest assured, its philosophy and offerings will remain exactly the same. “It stays in the same location,” says Lee. “There will still be books, workshops and a space to relax. While we’re only open two days a week, they’ll likely extend the hours so more people can unwind.”

Bei Bei Book House is located at 67 Tai Kong Po Village, Kam Tin, New Territories. It is open on Fridays and Saturdays. To ensure your visit, it’s best to make a reservation via social media or WhatsApp at +852 5225 4119.

Dionysus Books

Sai Kung

Located in Sai Kung, often called the “back garden of Hong Kong,” Dionysus Books was founded by chance in 2021. After leaving the job, the founder Stephanie Chong rekindled her love for reading and stumbled upon a shop for lease near her home, inspiring her to turn the passion into a business.

Likely the first independent Chinese bookstore in Sai Kung, the owner hopes the space will help break the “commercialised and busy” lifestyle of Hong Kong. “There are many ways to relieve stress, whether it’s through books, art, movies, or even spiritual practices. I hope people can get inspired by reading and find different ways of living,” says Chong. 

Over the past five years, the bookstore in the remote area has continued to evolve, offering more to its readers. Last November, it knocked through two rooms to introduce second-hand English books; while its selection has also expanded from history to include literature, lifestyle and books about the environment.

“Sustainability is something we want to achieve in this space,” says Chong. “All our furniture was collected from the kaifong and we don’t provide shopping bags.” Unlike most independent bookstores that regularly organise events, Dionysus Books has chosen to focus on the book itself, hoping to inspire people to rediscover the joy of reading through its careful selection. 

“I believe reading doesn’t always need a grand theme or a plan. If you read regularly, you’ll find joy in many things. Just like how books have broadened my perspective, I hope this bookstore can help people discover the joy of reading and remind them of the value it brings in this era,” says Chong. 

As a Sai Kung resident, she has noticed a growing cultural atmosphere in the area, with more unique shops and cafes emerging. “This is a slow-paced place with a lot to offer. You can take a stroll along the sea and mountains or explore some of the villages. In Sai Kung Market, there’s also a variety of shops that are worth visiting.”

Dionysus books is located at 17 Sai Kung Tai Street, Hong Kong. It is closed on Tuesday.

Nam Wan Bookshop 

Peng Chau

Formerly known as Islander’s Space, the venue has been renamed Nam Wan Bookshop to better reflect its location in the southern part of Peng Chau. Founded by two island residents in 2020, the small bookshop emerged from their creation of the map-zine Islanders, which tells the stories of Peng Chau.

In addition to showcasing its zine collections about Peng Chau and handcrafted creations by local residents, the bookshop offers a curated selection of bilingual books on other islands and extends beyond the city. Among these are sections on nonfiction and fiction focused on island narratives, sea and ocean culture, mapping and community building, architecture and urban planning, as well as ways of living and ecofiction.

“We hope people can find inspiration to think critically about the lives we live, especially in Hong Kong, a city that is very developed but also resource-consuming,” says co-founder Myriem Alnet. The bookshop also aims to serve as a space for conversation and a harbor for people to rest. “Just open a book and discover a new idea. You don’t even need to buy the book here, but just find inspiration in a different way of being and connecting with people.”

Beyond books, the creative space also houses Lou Natural Wine, a shop offering organic wines with guided tours and tastings, providing an alternative experience of Peng Chau. They will also participate in the Spring Market, held at Peng Chau Cinema, an art and community platform revitalised from an abandoned cinema, on April 4 and 5.

For those new to Peng Chau, the bookshop founder gives a simple suggestion: putting away your phone and abandoning maps or reviews to follow your path. “Take the opportunity to experience a place differently and reconnect with the people and surroundings that create its atmosphere,” says Alnet. “It’s a small island and you won’t get lost. All roads lead back to the ferry pier, so just enjoy the chance to feel and experience the place in a new way.”

Nam Wan Bookshop is located at 38C Wing Hing Street, Peng Chau. 

Reverie Bookstore 長夢書店 

Sheung Wan

Step into Reverie Bookstore, a cozy 300-square-foot space in Sheung Wan where books come alive with music. While most independent bookstores are found in Kowloon, this is one of the few on Hong Kong Island.

Greeted by gentle indie pop, the first thing you notice at Reverie is a table of new releases, mostly Chinese literature and prose written by artists and lyricists, alongside other music-related titles. On either side are two music corners celebrating the local scene: a small three-shelf bookcase dedicated to books on Hong Kong music on the right, and on the left, albums and merchandise from indie bands, all carefully curated by owner Ella Yip with her handwritten notes.

Since opening in 2024, Reverie has hosted a variety of events, including lyric-writing classes, book and music sharing sessions, indie pop nights, and neighborhood walking tours. The space also welcomes local indie musicians for live performances, and Yip compiles a monthly list of 15 non-mainstream song recommendations for bookstore members.

When visiting, don’t be shy to chat with the owner or staff, they could suggest the right song or band to complement your new read. “Reading and indie music are still relatively niche in Hong Kong, but I hope this space can bring the two worlds together and spark an interest in both,” says Yip.

While in Sheung Wan, take the chance to explore this historic neighborhood, where the British first set foot in Hong Kong in 1841 at Possession Street. Stroll through the bustling dried seafood district, admire century-old buildings, stop by stylish cafés like Halfway Coffee, or enjoy Michelin-starred and local restaurants — all set against a backdrop of vibrant street art.

Reverie Bookstore is located at Flat 103, 1/F, Enterprise Building, 228-238 Queen’s Road Central.

Sam Kee Bookstore

North Point

Standing in North Point for more than four decades, Sam Kee is one of the oldest and most beloved independent bookstores in Hong Kong. Tucked away in an old shopping centre on King’s Road, you need to descend two flights of stairs to the basement, passing a barber shop, a row of dark, neon-lit massage parlours and an arcade before reaching the bookstore, where books are stacked in a chaotic yet orderly manner at the entrance.

Home to over 40,000 books, Sam Kee offers both second-hand and new arrivals, covering everything from history and science fiction to biographies, Hong Kong literature, comics, Nordic thrillers and Japanese manga. A book lover herself, owner Caroline Chan places recommendation labels on books she enjoys and welcomes discussions with like-minded readers.

Apart from books, cats can always be found curled up around the store or strolling between the shelves. But remember not to pet them, as it’s not a petting zoo. The owner began keeping cats in the shop in 1983 to help catch rats, and since then, she has cared for stray cats in the store. Over the years, Sam Kee has welcomed more than 700 stray cats.

As you make your way to Sam Kee, don’t miss the chance to explore North Point, a neighbourhood that retains much of old Hong Kong’s charm with aging apartment blocks, decades-old street markets and shabby malls. 

For example, the iconic Chun Yeung Street, where trams run straight through and stalls line both sides; the now-closed State Theatre, a Grade I historic site founded in 1959; and the Chinese Goods Centre, established in 1963, filled with all sorts of fashion and household items.

Sam Kee Bookstore is located at Shop 19, G/F 193 King’s Rd, North Point. 

To-day Bookstore

Cheung Chau 

Cross the water to Cheung Chau, and you’ll find To-day Bookstore, painted in a calm mix of green and yellow that blends quietly with the surrounding homes. Founded in 2021 by seven newcomers to the island, the bookstore was created not just to fill the gap of having no bookstore on Cheung Chau, but also to celebrate the island’s culture and provide city dwellers with a peaceful spot to unwind.

Inside To-day, a table displays new books recommended by the founders, ranging from prose and Hong Kong history to Taiwanese literature. There’s also a corner dedicated to second-hand books. The left shelves feature everything from illustrated children’s books and publications on the city’s nature and Cheung Chau to Western literature. On the right, you will find publications, illustrations and handmade products by Hong Kong independent artists and brands.

Since opening, the bookstore has organised a variety of events — from book-sharing sessions and movie screenings to walking tours, DIY workshops, and kaifong gatherings — many of which focus on the island’s culture and its people. One highlight is an audio guide tour recorded by native islanders in Cantonese, with four routes ranging from 15 to 30 minutes. Readers choose a route, wear headphones, and bring a recommended book to explore Cheung Chau.

Following the audio instructions, you will pass through residential areas and the football court where the Bun Festival is held, listening as the kaifong share memories and histories of each location. The tour ends at a scenic spot where you can enjoy the island’s view with a read.

With the Cheung Chau Bun Festival just around the corner this May, To-day Bookstore is the perfect starting point to explore the island and its people. You might meet local islanders there or discover books and events that guide you around Cheung Chau. And stay tuned for the Interisland Festival this November, where To-day Bookstore will help organise events in Cheung Chau as part of the celebration of Hong Kong’s outlying islands and their diverse cultures.

To-day Bookstore is located at 68 Pak She Street, Cheung Chau. It is closed on Tuesday and Wednesday.