We’re shining a light on some of the independent bookshops that are keeping Hong Kong’s literary scene alive. Stay tuned for our upcoming Zolima’s Picks roundup!
Reaching To-day Bookstore takes some effort. First, there’s a 40-minute ferry ride from Central to Cheung Chau, followed by a brief walk through bustling streets until you arrive at the green-and-yellow painted shop that blends quietly into the surrounding homes. It’s a journey that could easily take up most of the day, but that’s the point: leaving behind the fast-paced city to unwind.
To-day was founded in 2021 by seven new Cheung Chau residents who moved to the island during the pandemic, when the world came to a halt and Hong Kong saw a wave of emigration. “There was a lot of talk about whether to stay or leave at that time,” says co-founder Sim Ho. “As we chose to stay, we wondered how to carry on with our lives and spend our days. So, we wanted to create a space to reflect on these open questions and explore different possibilities.” The shop’s Chinese name, 渡日 (dou6 jat6), implies both crossing the water and living in the moment.
Coming from all walks of life — media, visual arts, social work and teaching — the founders bonded over a shared love of books. Opening a bookshop felt natural, but it also answered a question that had stayed with them since moving to the island: “Why isn’t there a bookstore in Cheung Chau?”
A bookstore on Cheung Chau
There technically is a Cheung Chau Bookstore, which used to sell classic Chinese novels by Jin Yong (Louis Cha) and Yi Shu (Isabel Nee). But after the Cheung Chau public library opened in 1982, the shop began selling stationery instead of books. Until To-day opened, there was simply no bookshop on the island.
“We had to cross the waters to buy books,” says another co-founder, So Wai-lam. “By chance, we came across this place for lease and decided to give it a try, but none of us had any experience or knowledge of running a shop.” Some kaifong — local residents — bluntly told them, “No one reads here.” But it turned out To-day filled a need the island didn’t even know it had been missing.
“I found that there’s actually a reading population here. I’ve met locals and people who came to Cheung Chau for work, and I still see many coming to read now,” says So, a freelancer working in the design industry.
Inside To-day, a table displays new books recommended by the founders, from prose to Hong Kong history and culture to Taiwanese literature. There’s also a corner dedicated to second-hand books. The left shelves showcase everything from illustrated children’s books and publications on the city’s nature and Cheung Chau to Western literature. And it’s not just books — on the right side, you’ll find shelves selling publications, illustrations, and handmade products by local independent artists and brands.
“As each of us comes from different backgrounds, our choice of books reflects our personal interests and expertise,” says Ho, a former journalist who now works in communications. “For example, I focus more on literature, while So introduces illustrated books and independent publications. That’s why you’ll find a bit of everything here.”
Some kaifong visit just to buy the soy sauce or other grocery items they sell. “That’s totally fine,” says So, “as long as they remember there’s a space for them here in Cheung Chau. We don’t want this bookstore to feel like something alien to the islanders, especially the older generation.”
For some older residents who might not enjoy reading, the founders say there’s still something in To-day that interests them — like the fishing illustrations or book topics they might connect with, which help open up conversations about their lives here on Cheung Chau.
So recalls how an elderly woman revealed her story as a member of an indigenous fishing family while discussing a book about being a caregiver. “I have never thought about what life would be like as a fisherman,” he says. “Through listening to the islanders’ stories about the past and culture here, I came to understand Cheung Chau and its people better, which made me feel more connected with this place.”
A space to connect islanders and outsiders
Hong Kong has more than 250 outlying islands and Cheung Chau is one of the most densely populated. Around 20,000 residents are packed onto the island, mostly on the narrow isthmus between the rocky headlands that give the island its dumbbell shape.
The island became a bustling fishing port during the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644). While only a small number of islanders still work in the fishing industry, many fishing boats still line the waterfront alongside seafood restaurants. During holidays, Cheung Chau attracts large crowds for hiking and sightseeing, as well as its famous annual Bun Festival, which is held on the eighth day of the fourth lunar month.
Having moved to Cheung Chau in 2019, Ho and So say life on the island is not as crowded or inconvenient as some might expect. They particularly enjoy its close-knit community and natural surroundings.
“Cheung Chau is very organic,” says Ho. “Its streets are full of locals who live close to their families. I’ve met many people of all ages who grew up here with warm personalities and strong bonds. I think that comes from the environment or from the fishing community that they take pride in. People are always willing to share their lives.”
Over the waters
The bookshop has helped introduce that spirit to the city beyond the island. Since opening, it has organised a variety of events from book sharing and movie screenings to walking tours, DIY workshops and kaifong gatherings, many of which focus on the island’s culture and its people.
One event is an audio guide tour recorded by native islanders, with four routes ranging from 15 to 30 minutes. Readers choose a route, wear headphones and bring a recommended book to explore Cheung Chau. Following the audio instructions, they pass through various spots — from residential areas to the football court where the Bun Festival is held — while the kaifong in the audio share their memories and histories of each location, ultimately guiding readers to the final destination where they can enjoy the island’s view with a read.
From its perch in Cheung Chau, To-day is also building links to the rest of Hong Kong. Later this year, To-day will be part of the Interisland Festival held this November, which celebrates the diverse cultures of Hong Kong’s outlying islands, and will help organise events in Cheung Chau. The bookstore was also one of 20 independent bookstores that participated in the first Recommendation Awards in January, aimed at promoting Hong Kong publications and supporting the local book scene.
“I feel that independent bookstores in recent years have been proactive in building connections with other stores to introduce new ideas and draw more people into the local book industry,” says So. “While we might not have the same level of action or broad vision, we still participate in events to support one another whenever we can.”
Like many independent bookshops in Hong Kong, the biggest hurdle in running To-day has been economic constraints. “Fortunately, our rent here isn’t as high as in the city. Without this advantage, we wouldn’t have survived,” says Ho. “The reality is, this bookstore alone can’t support any of our livelihoods. So, all of us rely on additional income to sustain the space.”
But both Ho and So feel the importance of the bookshop to Cheung Chau. “You can feel how much this place has to offer. There’s always someone who needs it or shares the same interests, which makes me realise that this bookstore has its own purpose,” says So.
“These interactions with locals, organisations, and people from outside the island have gradually led to new events that connect each other and enrich our understanding of Cheung Chau,” says Ho. “This is something we didn’t expect five years ago, and over time, these connections have taken on their own meaning.”
All photos are provided with the courtesy of To-day Bookstore
To-day Bookstore is located at 68 Pak She Street, Cheung Chau. It is closed on Tuesday and Wednesday.