Zolima’s Picks: Cafés That Capture the Old Hong Kong Spirit

This is the first in a new series of articles that highlight creative spaces and businesses across Hong Kong. We’ve independently chosen and visited each location to bring you our recommendations.

Hong Kong may be famed as a shopper’s paradise, a glittering stage for global brands — but its true soul lives in the small, independent businesses that give the city its rhythm and warmth. Tucked between towers and beneath tong laus are the shops, eateries and creative spaces that keep Hong Kong’s stories alive, each one a thread in the city’s living tapestry.

This November, we turn our gaze to five restaurants and cafés that embody Hong Kong’s nostalgic charm and playful spirit. More than places for coffee or a light meal, they are sanctuaries of memory and community where the past lingers softly in every cup.

Fullcup Planet Café
To Kwa Wan 

When it took over Pak Kung, a classic cha chaan teng that was half a century old, Fullcup Planet preserves the charm of old Hong Kong while serving high-quality Japanese-style cuisine.

Stepping inside, soft Japanese music and the aroma of brewed coffee transport visitors to another world, far from the city’s hustle and bustle. The space is filled with knick-knacks from the owner’s personal collection spanning Hong Kong’s last century: nostalgic locally made toys, retro rotary telephones and alarms, a variety of posters, books, CDs and even an old red postbox adorned with Queen Elizabeth II’s royal cypher.

While the café evokes the nostalgia of Hong Kong, its menu delivers fresh and flavorful Japanese cuisine. In addition to the signature Ishigaki beef stew with yuzu, diners can enjoy Kagoshima wagyu barbecue and Miyazaki beef sets, offered in various portion sizes to suit every appetite.

Like its vintage items, the café and its neighbourhood may soon become part of Hong Kong’s history, as the area is set for redevelopment. The owner has chosen not to announce a closure date, stating “there is no need for farewell,” as he feels no regrets about his tenure. Regardless of what happens, all the vintage items will be carefully preserved for their next chapter.

91 Ma Tau Kok Road, To Kwa Wan, Kowloon. Tel: +852 2771 7775

Halfway Coffee
The Peak

After establishing six branches in bustling historic neighbourhoods like Mong Kok and Sheung Wan, Halfway Coffee has ventured into an unexpected location: the Peak. Opened in October 2025, this new site, like its other shops, is in an older building that served as a storage warehouse for Dairy Farm in the 1940s and was last owned by a real estate company; it is now used as an eatery for the first time.

“Every time I drove by the Peak, I thought, ‘What if this place could serve coffee made by me?’” recalls Tommy Chui, owner of Halfway Coffee. He spent seven months decorating the space, focusing on preserving the original windows that frame breathtaking sea views. “This place is worth preserving; the building is beautiful. My reason for this new location is the same as why I started the brand: to maintain the elements that Hongkongers can still enjoy.”

Although the cost of operating a shop on the Peak is inevitably higher than elsewhere, Chui maintains the same prices and quality for specialty coffee as in his other locations. Each drink is served in unique china cups and saucers, while the glasses adorned with painted flowers have a character all their own. Originally, Chui planned to move his small private museum of glass-fronted cupboards from Cat Street to the Peak, but due to challenges with the location, that plan has not yet been realised.

Looking ahead, the owner hopes this new branch will become a community space where people can enjoy a cup of coffee and recount their stories of Tai Ping Shan. “We want to invite the kaifong [neighbourhood residents] to share their memories of this shop and the history of the streets, so we can gain a deeper understanding of this place and tell its stories to more people.”

Shop 3, LG/F, Peak Road Dairy Farm Shopping Centre, 100 Peak Road, The Peak. Tel: +852 2606 1160

Lo Yi Faateng (老二花廳)
Mong Kok

In Cantonese, co5 faa1 teng1 (坐花廳) means to go to jail, but dining at Lo Yi Faateng couldn’t be more delightful. Founded by the Hong Kong filmmakers and production designers behind the 2022 comedy Table for Six, the restaurant blends nostalgic Hong Kong aesthetics with a creative fusion of local flavours.

At the entrance of the two-storey eatery, red couplets quoting lyrics from a song by the late Cantonese singer Cheng Kam-cheong “Why do I like you? Because you are beautiful” (點解我鍾意你，因為你係靚) immediately convey the restaurant’s playful charm. Inside, you will be greeted by staff dressed in the white uniforms of classic cha chaan teng, surrounded by vintage décor that transports you back to the 1980s. In one corner, the founders have even created a movie set-style nostalgic home scene, complete with old furniture, inviting diners to snap a photo or two.

What could not be missed is their signature cheung fun. Not the classic dim sum style with barbecue pork, shrimp or beef, nor the street-food version topped with soy, hoisin and peanut sauces that one might expect, Lo Yi Faa Teng adds international twists to this staple local food with flavours such as Japanese mentaiko and crab, Southeast Asian species like Singaporean curry and chicken laksa. 

Shop 4, G/F, 22 Pak Po Street, Mong Kok. Tel: +852 3108 9123

Mum’s Not Home
Yau Ma Tei

Born in the spirit of freedom and creativity, Mum’s Not Home is not a typical café but an art studio whose owners — Chow Kong-chuen, a fashion designer, and Ma Chun-kui, a visual artist — bring their otherworldly ideas to life. Inside, you will see their handmade clothing, travel souvenirs and quirky trinkets. Further in, a free seating area showcases an eclectic mix of vintage furniture, paintings, plants and mirrors, most collected from the streets. 

Over time, the duo has rearranged the space after their trips, such as removing all the chairs to create a Japanese tatami-style setup, and most recently transforming it into a wedding banquet, with a round table draped in a red tablecloth at the centre, surrounded by smaller seating areas for intimate gatherings.

It’s not just the setup that evolves; the owners also experiment with new flavours for their cheesecakes and drinks. For example, on a trip to India, they fell in love with masala chai, a beverage made by brewing black tea with fragrant spices, sugar and milk. They then transformed it into a cheesecake flavor that quickly became a favorite among customers. 

Mum’s Not Home has no hired staff and is run entirely by the two owners. Just as they treat the café as their own home, where they can be their true selves, you are welcome to chat with them — and of course to be respectful while enjoying your time there.

1/F, 302 Shanghai Street, Yau Ma Tei. Tel: +852 9770 5760

Tai Wo Tang Café (大和堂)

As a cherished memory of Kowloon City, the Chinese medicine hall Tai Wo Tang has stood since 1932, witnessing the city’s history, from the Japanese occupation to Hong Kong’s return to China. After three generations of family management, it was revitalised as a nostalgic café in 2018, serving a fusion of Chinese and Western flavours.

What has been preserved is not just the name but also the nearly century-old wooden Chinese medicine cabinets, retro metal shutters, wooden benches and gold-painted store signage, all reflecting the human touch of the place and the spirit of old Hong Kong.

Specialising in Western-style food, Tai Wo Tang offers classic coffee options and pasta, while also presenting unique Chinese-inspired dishes such as the signature vitality tea, ginseng oolong tea and the Hong Kong staple char siu rice. The most eye-catching dish is the egg waffles and chicken, which pairs Hong Kong-style egg waffles with fried chicken and a homemade lemon sauce.

24 Nga Tsin Long Road, Kowloon City. Tel: +852 2623 2006